Product Reviews

Product Review: Dish Wally – the little receiver that could!

After a string of campground reviews, I figured it was time to review a product.  After all, we all love gadgets!  Since installing our new Dish Network Wally receiver last week, I figured this would be a prime candidate since it deals with something everyone loves – TV!!

What is it?

The Wally is a satellite television receiver for Dish Network.  It is the middle-man between the satellite antenna (the dish) and your television.  It takes the signal received from the dish and makes it into the picture you see on the TV screen.  That is its most basic function, but modern receivers often do much more.  These duties can include providing on-demand content, DVR management, and a platform for other online, streaming services such as Netflix, Hulu and others.

Why Dish Network?

There seems to be a divide in the RV’ing community: Dish Network vs DirecTV.  I went with Dish initially because Lucky had a KVH dome satellite antenna mounted on the roof.  This satellite antenna was capable of receiving Dish Network or DirecTV, BUT it can only receive high definition (HD) content from Dish.  Due to the format or compression or some other technical term, a dome satellite antenna cannot receive HD content from DirecTV.  For me, once you’ve gone HD, you can’t go back to standard definition – it just looks archaic.  In addition to that reason, Dish is known to be more RV’er-friendly by allowing service to be paused and easily updating the service address so that local, network channels (ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX, etc) can be received.  DirecTV definitely has some advantages over Dish (NFL Sunday Ticket being a big one), but no HD was a deal-breaker.

What are its advantages over its predecessors?

The Wally is definitely a new generation and a step forward for Dish Network, single-tuner, mobile-antenna compatible receivers.  I owned the previous version; the VIP 211Z, and was happy for the most part.  The VIP began power-cycling, on its own, quite frequently at the end, and this prompted the Wally replacement.  The main upgrades to the Wally are it’s smaller and lighter size (it could be stuck to the back of a TV or a wall using Velcro, if you want), a radio frequency (RF) remote (versus infrared) and an updated user interface.

The RF remote can be especially nice for RV’ers since receivers are often hidden away and/or service more than one television.  With RF, the controller can pass through walls and requires no direct line-of-sight, like an IR remote does.  In application, this means I can change channels on the Wally, which is in the living room, while laying in bed or watching TV outside (all of my TV’s are serviced by a single receiver).

The updated user interface is a “nice to have” feature.  The VIP interface was pretty basic and was not displayed in HD.  It did not give any logos for the channels or shows, like the Wally does, and overall it looked dated.  The Wally interface is based on the same platform as the modern, Dish, home receivers.  It does display logos for each channel and many of the shows.  It is in HD and overall offers more function.

Another upgrade to the Wally, which I haven’t used yet*, but it’s nice to know about, is the integration of streaming services.  Netflix is the big one and Dish has done a great job of incorporating it into the guide and menus.  For instance, when searching for a show, it not only tells you when that show will be on, and what channel, but it also lists which episodes are available on Netflix and allows you to access it directly from there.  In order to access Netflix, or any other online content such as on-demand content, Game Finder, Pay-Per-View, etc, the Wally must be connected to your router via an ethernet connection.  OR, a separate WiFi adapter, which plugs into a USB port on the back and picks up your broadcast WiFi signal, can be used.  I should also mention that a separate Netflix subscription is required to use that service.

*UPDATE: I have now added the Dish WiFi adapter to my Wally and I really enjoy the convenience of having all the functionality from one unit – and remote.  The WiFi adapter is a standard, relabeled Netgear WNDA3100V2.  You can find the Netgear WNDA3100 at most electronics stores, but the current version is V3 – this WILL NOT WORK.  The Wally will only recognize the V2, so it’s worth searching out the Dish version on Amazon or Camping World.

In addition to the WiFi adapter, Dish offers Bluetooth and over-the-air (OTA) adapters.  The Bluetooth adapter allows the user to listen to the audio output through a Bluetooth headset (your TV may offer this functionality built-in as mine does).  The OTA adapter allows you to hook your OTA antenna (like a bat-wing rooftop antenna) into the receiver and it will incorporate those channels into the guide.  All the adapters are connected via USB to the back of the receiver.  The Wally has two USB ports, so not all adapters can be used at one time.  If the optional DVR service is used, it will occupy one of the two USB ports.

What other features does it have?

Even if they’re not new, the Wally definitely has other features worth mentioning:

  • DVR: The Wally can be connected to an external hard drive of up to 2TB.  The drive must have a separate power source and be USB connected.  Dish charges a one-time fee of $40 for DVR service which stays with the account, even if you change receivers.
  • Mobile antenna compatibility: The Wally is compatible with the various mobile antennas on the market (the Tailgater was the original).  These satellite antennas are powered through the coaxial cable.  This means they only require one cable for both signal transmission and power – super simple.  This requires the receiver to be compatible so that it transmits the power to the dish and controls its movements.  I replaced the original, rooftop KVH with a Winegard Playmaker (X1), along with a Winegard Pathway X2 for umbilical use when I have obstructions blocking the rooftop dish.  Both of these antennas are powered by the receiver and I’m a huge fan of this technology.
  • *UPDATE: The Dish Wally is now compatible with the Amazon Echo devices!  This means you can ask Alexa to tune to stations, search for programming, control playback and more!  I can report that after a rough, initial setup, it has worked really well.  I thought it would be much more novelty at first, but it’s actually come in handy to ask for a station by name when I don’t know the channel number or search for shows without manually typing it in with the on-screen keyboard.  This feature does require the Wally to be connected to the internet via ethernet or the optional WiFi adapter.

What about inputs and outputs?

The Wally has identical connections as the VIP 211Z.  These consist of the powered coaxial input coming from the satellite dish antenna, an ethernet connection, an HDMI output to run to your HD television, RCA SD video output, two USB ports and the 120VAC power adapter.

What are the downsides?

If I put myself in the shoes of a typical cable/satellite TV subscriber in a house, the biggest drawback is that the Wally only has one tuner.  This means that only one live channel can be viewed at a time.  This also means that if you are recording something, you cannot watch another live channel – but you can watch something you’ve previously recorded. As an RV’er who is used to having a single-tuner receiver, I can’t really think of any downsides.

What has my experience been?

Honestly, it’s been great! I had been watching the Wally for a bit and knew that it had a few software glitches when it first launched.  For that reason and because “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, I held off and continued to use my VIP 211Z.  Once the VIP began to malfunction and it sounded like the Wally’s software glitches had been cleared up, I pulled the trigger.  I was a bit worried because I had heard some reports of problems activating the Wally using a mobile antenna – and that’s all I have.  To my delight, it went through the activation process very smoothly.  This included directing the mobile antenna through a check switch (where it finds the three satellites), downloading a current software update and receiving the activation signal from Dish network.  It booted up with my proper programming package and knew that I was authorized to have DVR service.  Something I had prepared myself for did happen; it had to format my DVR hard drive.  “Format” is another word for delete and start fresh.  This meant that I lost all the shows I had recorded on my DVR previously – not great, but not the end of the world.  I also had to reestablish my scheduled DVR recordings.

I was very happy to find out that the receiver does not need an internet connection in order to provide the channel and show logos.  After a day or so, they all began populating in the guide, so that info must be sent down from the satellites.  That, along with Netflix information, is data that I didn’t expect to receive without internet connectivity.  Obviously, in order to watch the Netflix content I would need to put Wally online.  I haven’t done this because my Samsung smart TV and an Amazon Fire TV both currently provide online content.

Overall, the guide is snappy, picture looks great, and it has needed (or performed on its own) ZERO reboots.  This is one of those rare times when a product lived up to, and outperformed, my expectations.

What is this about software glitches?

Initially, it was reported that the Wally had an issue passing its check switch unless it could see all three satellites.  Its predecessors would allow the user to select the option to watch TV with a limited channel lineup if it could not connect with all satellites.  While I have not been in a position to try this, word is that an update did fix this bug.  I can report that my unit did do a lengthy software update during activation, so there have been changes made since launch. *UPDATE: I have now used the Wally in a situation where I could only get reception from two of the three satellites and it worked perfectly, albeit with a limited channel lineup.

There were also reports that users had issues with the activation process hanging up if they tried to activate it using a mobile antenna (like what I have).  I did not have this issue whatsoever.  Would it have been faster on an actual mast-mounted dish?  Maybe, but I have no complaints.  I would estimate that it was 40 minutes from the time I opened the box until I was watching TV.  Certainly if you do have issues activating this, or any other receiver, definitely try to locate an actual Dish Network dish and try again.  Camping World is a good spot to do this since they have a demo unit inside the store that is run to a dish on the roof.  Simply unplug their receiver and plug in yours.  I activated my VIP 211Z right in the aisle of a CW when I was a new Dish customer.

Wrap it up, already!

Yep, it’s that time.  Most of you may want to know what this little box will cost you.  Well, it retails for $119, but if you’re reading this then I’m sure you’re internet savvy enough to find it for cheaper.  It can easily be found on Amazon in the $80 range (virtually the same as the VIP 211Z) and possibly less expensive elsewhere. If you’re starting from scratch, you can pick up a bundle with a mobile antenna to save some money.  My experience has been great and I’m willing to guess that yours will be too.  If I can be of assistance in getting yours set up, answering any questions or maybe I left something out (or got it wrong), please contact me or drop a message below!

See you on the road!

Ryan, Kim and Jet

32 thoughts on “Product Review: Dish Wally – the little receiver that could!

  1. I bought wally to replace my 211Z. I bought into the great reviews. What no one bothered mentioning was that the Wally require ALL 3 Satellites to be found or you get NO programs. My 211Z would often miss a satellite but still let me get programming from ones it found. For me this makes the Wally as good as NO receiver at all.

    1. Hi Darrell, thanks for reading and commenting! I did bother to address this issue in my review. In fact, I even went as far to give an update on this specific topic. The current software does not have this issue and I have passed many check switch tests with less than three satellites. If you’re experiencing otherwise, I would recommend updating your software (current version is U438 as of 7/14/18). If that doesn’t resolve your issue, I would contact Dish to find a resolution because it’s not a current problem. Happy viewing!

  2. Just hooked up my Wally, Tailgater, and external drive DVR in my RV. All seems to be working great. Quick question, I noticed the Wally has a default turn off of 4 hours if you don’t change channels or engage it in someway, so does that mean I have to change it to stay on all the time in order to record to my external hard drive if I have a timer set up to record after the 4 hours has turned it off or is like the Hopper at home, where the power is actually off but will still record shows?

    1. Hi Jim, thanks for reading! I’m glad your setup is working well! The “Inactivity Timeout” is a setting that can be adjusted by hitting the home button twice, “Settings”, “Power”. I changed mine to two hours so in case I forget to turn it off, it will turn itself off earlier and look for any available updates to do while I’m away. Like many modern electronics, if the Wally is plugged in, it’s technically on. Really, it just goes into a standby mode when it is “off”. No matter if it’s on or in standby, the DVR timers will record, so that doesn’t need to be a consideration. I frequently record shows overnight and it’s never an issue. Recordings will also take precedent over the daily reset (where it relocates the satellites, checks the hard drive and downloads a fresh program guide).

      Happy viewing!
      Ryan

    1. I have read that external hard drives from the same model of receiver and on the same account can be moved from one to another. I’ve never tried this, so I can’t vouch for the validity.

  3. We upgraded to the Wallys last year after a power glitch toasted both our VIP 211K receivers. Because we had the K receivers, we were able to also connect our OTA antenna through the receivers. With the Wally, we had to get the adapters, and they work well, except, we are not able to delete the channels from the Guide when we change locations in our RV. Any suggestions how to do this? I have tried to delete all the OTA channels, and they just still show on the Guide.

    1. Hi Bob, I have never used the OTA adapter, so I’m probably not going to be of much help. The only thing I can think of is that the guide is generated by your service address (which gets sent to your Wally through the satellite). Have you called or chatted with Dish customer service to update your service address when you arrive to a new location? That may be counterproductive to why you’re using the OTA adapter since you’ll receive local channels through Dish if you have an updated service address.
      Ryan

  4. Ryan, we are thinking about changing from the 211v to the Wally. Some parks have decent WiFi some not, do you know if the hotspot from an iPhone will work for WiFi to view Netflix, or not because of constant buffering? Thanks for your insightful article. Susan

    1. Hi Susan! If you get a Wally, along with the Wi-Fi adapter, you should be able to connect to any 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network – including your phone’s hotspot. What will determine how good the video quality is will be your cellular data connection. If you have a strong 4G LTE signal, then you should be able to stream without issue. Just remember that high definition video burns through data and could quickly go through your monthly allotment. Good luck!
      -Ryan

      1. I have the WiFi adapter connected to my Wally using my iPhone hotspot
        it buffers a lot very annoying
        but when I use the dish everywhere app on my iPhone
        Connect directly to to tv using a lightning to hdmi adapter that that you can get from Apple it hardly buffers at all
        Bonus it mirrors everything on your iphone screen to your tv

  5. Ryan, very good article.
    Yesterday I purchased a Wally system coupled with a winegaurd pathway X1 from camping world and was told I HAD to have two receivers in my new keystone outback unit in order to run my bed room tv.
    I know you covered the last question with the fact that you had a central hub…but do you have (or maybe your audience) any thoughts on when a unit does not have a central hub? I was wondering if maybe there is a possible way to patch it in. I would love to have the capability of hooking up my living room, bedroom & outside tv.
    I currently have the two coaxial connections outside in the docking station (one for cable, one for satalite) and the same configuration behind my main tv. In the bedroom, I have a single connection with the same configuration for my outside tv.
    As you can tell, I AM technically challenged! Thank you in adavance!

    1. Hi Doyle,
      Thanks for reading! You’ll like the Wally and X1 combo. If your RV doesn’t have all of your TV’s wired to a central hub, then it’s a bit more challenging to use a single receiver. It’s one of those jobs that is very easy to do on the assembly line, but a pain to add once the coach is constructed. You do have the option to run coaxial or (preferably) HDMI from your main A/V cabinet to all peripheral TV’s, but that’s a lot of work. If I did not have a central hub already run and I simply wanted to be able to view the programming from my main receiver on a peripheral TV, I would look into a wireless HDMI setup. Basically, you’d run the HDMI output from the Wally to the wireless HDMI transmitter and then pass-through to your main TV. At the peripheral TV (bedroom, outside, etc), you’d connect the wireless HDMI receiver to that TV’s HDMI input. Note that both units (transmitter and receiver) of the wireless HDMI kit need to be powered, so it will only work if you have a spare 120V wall socket nearby to both TV’s. Here is an example of a wireless HDMI that has the pass-through that you’d want: http://amzn.to/2AgchtS Note that this particular model allows two HDMI inputs that can be transmitted to the receiving TV, but you don’t have to use both if you only wanted to hook up the Wally. The key to this solution is having a kit which allows the HDMI signal to pass-through the transmitter. Otherwise you’re having to hook and unhook HDMI cables each time you want to change your viewing location – that’s not very fun.
      I hope that’s helpful!
      Ryan

    2. I put a splitter on my HDMI wall y outlet. One HDMI cable to front tv and another long HDMI cable to bedroom tv. Works good. Now if I could find a wireless HDMI transmitter and receiver that worked through walls i could get rid of the long cable

    3. Use a wireless HDMI transmitter and receiver that plugs into HDMI port. You will also need an HDMI splitter (one to tv tv other to HDMI wireless transmitter). There is a latentcy transmitting so if both TV’s are turned on you will hear an echo. My J-Tech Digital HDbitT Series 1X2 Wireless HDMI Extender / Adapter works great.

  6. Great thanks so much for your replies. Makes it so much easier when people like you can help those of us who are a little techie challenged.

  7. Thanks for the fast reply. I’m not sure I understand. So I have to take the one remote to the other room to control the other tv and it may not control the volume? If that is correct then do I control the volume with the original tv remote?

    1. Sorry, I’ll try to explain it better. For everyday usage, I have my Wally remote programmed to control the volume and other basic features of my main, living-room TV and surround sound receiver. If I go outside, or in the bedroom, to watch TV, I can still control the Wally to change channels, DVR, etc, but the remote doesn’t control that TV’s volume since it’s programmed for my main TV. So I either grab the TV remote or just stand up and hit the buttons on the TV if needed. If all the TVs in your coach are the same brand, then the remote will likely control all TVs equally. Either way, it’s not a big deal. You just tote the single Wally remote to wherever you’re watching TV.

  8. If I hook up the wallet to my hub like you did, Do I buy an additional remote to work the second tv? Or do I use the original tv remote?

    1. Hi Gail! One of the features of Wally is the RF (radio frequency) remote. This allows you to control the Wally from another room – or outside. The only potential downside of having one remote for different rooms is that it may not control the volume of all TVs if they’re not the same brand. I don’t know for certain since I’ve never tried, but I believe that each Wally can only be linked to one remote – they’re mated, unlike IR (infrared) remotes. The remote still possess the ability to send IR signals to your TV and other auxiliary devices for volume, input, menu, etc control.

  9. Thanks for the positive review Ryan, I just ordered a Wally to replace my aging VIP and have been getting concerned with all the negative experiences attaching to a Tailgater. I feel much better after your great review….Thanks

  10. Thank you for your review! I was wanting to get one sooner but I had read all the negatives and held off until I read yours and decided to try it out. Everything went perfectly! Plus it’s great to have a working remote at all the tvs.

    1. Hey Ryan (great name, by the way)! I’m glad you picked one up! In the past week, I added the USB Wi-Fi adapter. It’s totally unnecessary in my setup, but it does add a lot of functionality – on demand, more descriptions, Netflix, etc. The real reason I added it is because late last month, Dish and Amazon announced that Alexa (Amazon Echo devices) would be able to control Hopper devices. Subtly they also announced that an internet-connected Wally would also be compatible. Sure enough, I can now control my Wally with my voice! Pretty cool for a gadget-geek, like myself. Enjoy your Wally – definitely a big jump over the VIP line. Thanks for reading!

    1. Hi Kristy! Thanks for reading! My RV has a central A/V hub where all the inputs run into. These include the antenna, satellite, park cable outlet, and auxiliary (DVD, game, etc). I run my Wally into that hub and then I can select the satellite input for one or more of the TV’s. Since my hub is based on coaxial cable, it doesn’t pass HD picture to the TV’s, but I ran a separate HDMI cable to the main, salon TV where we do the vast majority of our viewing. The newer coaches are using HDMI throughout, so that wouldn’t be an issue. If I really want high definition outside (for a big sporting event, for instance), I can run a long, temporary HDMI cable out the window and plug it into my outdoor TV.

      1. Ryan I would like to know how you hook up the Wally to your A/V hub since the Wally has no coax output. It only has hdmi and rca outputs and you are using the hdmi for your main tv. That only leaves the rca outputs. My A/V hub has rca inputs for a DVD player and then you output it via coax to other TV’s as SD. Is this how you are connected. Thanks for the great article.

        1. Hi David! I have the dedicated HDMI running directly to my main TV. The RCA is running into the hub (my hub has RCA inputs for satellite). Therefore, I only get HD picture from Dish on my main television. You could always use your DVD input on the hub for the Wally if the satellite only has a coax input. Thanks for reading!

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